This weeks surfchat sponsor is Rowhunter, nuff said place will be packed,,,
gonna givaway a high hook pencil, and a Black label slider kit,, "thanks guys for your donations"
10 pm sat night on the chat room

Hey douglas, please bring some canoe pics.. :read:

I CANT WAIT!!!!

one of ....SBO'S GREATS.......gonna be a good one again.....SBO ROCKS......

This is gonna be a good one


Blues

Hey guy's (and gals), due to a shop renovation that has eaten way more time than it should have, it would be real tough to crank out a decent piece right now. To top things off, my lathe decided to stop working as well, and the controller is now in Pennsylvania! So, if you don't mind, I thought I'd shed some light on my take of the resin molding process.
First off understand that there is nothing that can beat that special wooden lure. You know the one, that one that maybe even rolled off a duplicator ,but somehow always outperforms it's peers. It's the variances in wood that will give us that magic one, the O.K. ones and the fire pit fillers. Duplication is where the resin will shine once you have the proper mixture for the piece you are casting. I use the resins from Alumalite and it is a simple 1 to 1 mix ratio. Mix 1 part A with 1 part B and in a little over a minute the resin is solid, the only problem with that is that it will sink like a stone! This is where you'll need to add a product for buoyancy ,Alumalite recommends microballoons. Up to 100% can be added to the resin mixture and that thing will float like a cork, probably way too much! This is where you change your mix formula to suit your density requirements. Once you have this, and the rest of your procedure set, it is relatively simple to replicate your prototype's characteristics.
Making a mold. There are several way's to do this heres how I've done it. Cut a length of PVC tubing lengthwise somewhere close to the center, this is the backing for the RTV silicone. Build up one of the halves with clay and imbed your chosen master in the clay as close to dead center as possible. Join the two sections of PVC , tape the seams and hot glue one of the ends down to a scrap piece of plastic or tile. Mix and pour your chosen RTV down the open cavity. After 18 to 24 hours, remove the PVC from the base and separate the mold , try to keep the master imbedded in the RTV and remove all of the clay. Re-tape, re-hot glue and pour the other half. Congratulations, you now have a 2 piece mold. Now just drill a pour hole and cut away some RTV from it so the resin can flow freely, I use 3/8" hole. This two piece mold will let you mold in a pre-formed wire. Again, this is only one way to do this. You could choose to do a 1 piece mold ,and bore holes for a through wire and belly hook after molding ,just as you would to a wood piece. Screw eyes are also an option.
Some good things about resin are its ability to be quickly replicated, no need to seal to prevent decay, strength, and the fact that unlike injected plastic production pieces a resin unit is solid.
Not so good, it really can take a lot of prep to come up with a piece that has a near perfect finish for paint ,cue "Tiny Bubbles", can be messy, start up cost , and it's not WOOD!
Now, I hope I've answered some questions because I really need to get back to my shop, here are some pic's.

See you tonight in the Chat , I will be giving away the Herring pictured at the end!

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Oh my god, are you kiddin me?I can not wait to come back...

Very nice layout on the resin molds. Great job!

Thanks Douglas.

Jamie

Hopefully I'll be back in the Surfchat tonight.....unless work gets in the way yet again.

Just great, I have read it twice, great great pics. incredible right through the finish...wow